A few last days in Jodhpur and beyond

#Jodhpur to Udaipur
Yesterday we took a very long bus ride from Jodhpur to Udaipur. The seven sleepless, smoky hours were actually pretty enjoyable. The bus stopped in every village to let a family or two off or on and the countryside out the window was dotted with not-quite-pastoral scenes of kids playing cricket in the dust and old men drinking chai in the evening cool.
If we got bored we could always stick our heads into the aisle and watch the horror movie always threatening to unfold out the front windscreen as the driver hooked us in and out of the dirt for another mind-blowing overtake. We actually passed what looked like a fatal truck smash early in the trip which had me wishing for the seatbelts I never put on in Australia.  We stopped half-way at a rest stop that puts anything on the hume highway to shame with amazing samosas and chai.
We’ll tell more about Udaipur when we’ve got photos that tell half the tale. If you can’t handle the suspense get a copy
of Octopussy and watch a much cheesier version of the real thing (EDIT: Udaipur is now famous for the fact this film was partly filmed here. Turns out mum and dad (bohdana’s) were here when it was being filmed, 27 years ago. Turns out not much has changed!).

A delicious samosa and chai filled rest stop on the bus to Udaipur

#Delcious India!
The past week has been a good one for food, we’ve started to explore the street food and chai as our stomachs have gotten used to the spices and oil.

Our very own hand made vege biryani (decorated with silver!)

On our last day in Jodhpur we got a cooking lesson from a local couple in the back of their small spice shop.
It proved to be one of the most rewarding and relaxing things we’ve done so far and gave us a real insight into the everyday lives of a modern Indian family as we watched the comings and goings of thier children, parents and in-laws, all living under the one roof.
But the food! We were shown how to make a few different curries, a biryani, proper chai tea, the local saffron-spiced butter lassi and, my favorite, the breads! Hopefully you can smell the butter and spices coming out of our photos. If not we’ll cook you a meal when we get back.

The delicious Makkhaniya (saffron) lassi, special to Jodhpur.

Mhmmmmm paneer curry and Ben's hand made chapati

Rekha showing us how to cook dhal

Tonight we left the tourist area behind to try a thali at a hotel restaurant that is very popular with the locals. There wasn’t another tourist in sight as we tucked into easily the best meal we’ve had at a restaurant in India so far.
For those of you that have never come across one, a thali is a kind of platter of curries and accompaniying cooler dishes. In this case it was four delicioius vegetable curries as the hot part accompanied by coconut raita, yoghurt and some
kind of amazing coriander salsa to cool our mouths down. This came with rice and two kinds of bread and was all you can eat for 80 rupees (about $1.60). There was some heroic shoveling going on on the other tables! There were five or six waiters cirlcing the room, each in charge of refilling one or two bits of our plate.
They were lightning fast and eager to please so we had to be positively but very firmly assertive to stop our plates piling up!

We were so busy eating we forgot to take a picture so here's our empty thali tray

Some more fun photos:

Drinking chai in the smoky backroom of a chai-wallah in Jodhpur

Saw this guy hanging outside our train in Jaisalmer as we waited to board to go to Jodhpur.

Clever marketing in Jaisalmer. Our parents will be glad to know we politely declined the shop owners offer of opium as we photographed his signs.


2 responses

  1. B &B
    Glad you are having a wonderful time. The food looks amazing and the prices are definitely right . The time is moving on, 20 day to go !
    love mum and dad xx

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